From Lars Wallin’s show at Mode Live in Malmö. Photo by Sara Thorsson.
Katja of Sweden wanted to create cloths for women to feel comfortable in. She was inspired by the new design of Scandinavian furnitures. She felt that new type of cloths needed to be designed for the modern woman that wanted to be able to sit in those beautiful new Bruuno Mathsson chairs. This was in the 1940th. Haute couture was not for her.
Today, Lars Wallin is Sweden’s best designer in haute couture, the Prince of Glamour. In the contrast to Katja of Sweden, Lars Wallin wants to show glamour and timeless cloths. While Katja almost wanted to liberate women, Lars wants to make her feel beautiful. He creates the dress for a specific woman by trying to understand who she is, but also to surprise her without making her feel like she is going to a masquerade. At Mode Live beautiful dresses were shown from his latest Fashion Week in Hong Kong and his new collection Summer 2016. He has not only made dresses for royalties but also to celebrities. There will be an exhibition in Malmö probably in the end of 2016. I am looking forward to see more.
From Lars Wallin’s show at Mode Live in Malmö. Photo by Sara Thorsson
Copenhagen is famous for their Fashion Week and Danish design. Many don’t know that Malmö has its own creative fashion hub which currently is invisible by Copenhagen’s fame. Next week Mode Live will change this by showing what the city can do in fashion. The fashion industry is not new in Malmö. In fact the city has had a proud tradition in producing socks and underwear, for example. The textile company MMT produced cloths in wool, cotton and silk already in the end of 19th century. In the1940th the company had over 500 employees. But when the cooperation with Katja of Sweden started in 1954 the company became successful in fashion.
Mode Live will start the weekend with a gala dinner and a haute couture show by Lars Wallin. The glowing show and weekend will be exciting and it is great that Malmö will show off their knowledge in fashion. I’m excited. I just hope they have not forgotten its history. A bit of Katja of Sweden would be greate to see. Stay tuned…
A Swedish version follows below.
Company like H&M and many designers team up with others to create unique collections. Katja of Sweden understood the value of teaming up already in 1949 when she designed her first collection in New York. The prints were designed by Viola Gråsten, Göta Trägårdh, Astrid Sampe and Marimekko’s Maija Isola.
In the 70th, textil designer Hans Krondahl created prints for Katja, inspired by nature around his house in the south of Sweden. This co-operation last for almost five years. You can see some of Hans Krondahl’s prints on the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum or in the magazine Hus & Hem Retro April 2015. Most of the cloths were sold in the US and Europe but some of these beautiful designs are still owned by Swedish ladies. It is part of Swedish fashion history.
Source: Katja of Sweden biography by Katja Geiger and Lars Åhlander https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/people/18046225
Hus & Hem Retro April 2015
Print designer: Hans Krondahl for Katja of Sweden 1974.
Photo: Kerstin Maripuu.
Företag som H&M och andra designers samarbetar för att skapa unika kollektioner. Även Katja of Sweden förstod värdet av samarbete med framstående textilkonstnärer och hade förmågan att få fram vackra kollektioner av även avancerade mönster. Redan i sin första kollektion 1949 använde hon sig av signerade tyger från Viola Gråsten, Göta Trägårdh, Astrid Sampe och Marimekkos grundare Maija Isola. På 70-talet arbetades kollektioner fram av mönster från Hans Krondahl. Inspirationen för de unika mönstrena hämtades från naturen runt huset i södra Sverige. Samarbetet varade i nästan 5 år. Hans Krondahl räknas idag som en av de största textilkonstnärerna. Se några av hans mönster på Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum eller läs tidningen Hus & Hem Retro april 2015.
Många av Katjas kläder har försvunnit utomlands. Men en del finns i äldre svenska damers garderober. Det är ett kulturarv och början på det svenska modeundret.
Källor: Se ovan engelska versionen
The English text follows with a Swedish version below.
By reading and get inspired by Swedish designer Katja of Sweden I see how hard work, good ideas and sometimes good education have helped upcoming designers to succeed. Katja got her education in design at the Parson’s School of Design in the 1940th. She then launched her brand Katja of Sweden which became successful in the US and in Europe.
Today I read about another designer, who is doing the same thing. Swedish Alicia Mariano is based in New York. After she graduated the Parson’s School of Design she launched her own brand INEZ-NY. Swedish forests and Manhattan’s buildings inspires her. She uses natural materials like fur and skin that come directly from the Swedish hunting season in co-operation with the Svenska Jägarförbundet (Swedish Hunting Society). Elk skin are one example of material she uses, but also soft silk. She mixes hard with soft. Quality, material and form are important and give an exclusive look. You will read more about this new designer in the future, who recently was nominated Swedish Fashion Talents 2015 in Stockholm.
Genom att läsa och inspireras av Katja of Swedens liv och gärningar lär jag mig mycket om dagens designers. De har gemensamt att succé kommer efter hårt arbete, bra idéer och ibland god utbildning. Katja lyckades göra succé med sin design i USA och Europa efter avslutade studier på Parsons School of Design på 1940-talet.
Idag kan man läsa om svenskan Alicia Mariano som, även hon efter studier på samma skola, designar och når ut med sitt egna varumärke INEZ-NY. De svenska skogarna och Manhattan’s skyskrapor inspirerar henne. Genom ett samarbete med Svenska Jägarförbundet använder hon sig av enbart naturliga material från den svenska jaktsäsongen, tex älg. Men mjukt siden används också – hårt mot mjukt. Kvalitet, material och form är viktiga ledord i Alicias design. Du kommer höra mer om denna unga designer som i år blev nominerad till Young Fashion Talents 2015 i Stockholm.