Kan retro vara läckert?

Stil med Katja of Sweden. Foto Sara Thorsson / Sagamodellen. Modell anonym.

Bra design är tidlös. Det här är vintage i sin rätta bemärkelse, gjort av den svenska designern Katja Geiger under varumärket Katja of Sweden. 
Citat från Katja of Sweden 1960 (MMTS arkiv): “Jag tänker först på kvinnan som ska bära plagget när jag designar det. Behovet för dagens kvinnor. Funktion och god design prioriteras först. Det gör att designen inte kommer att förändras dramatiskt från säsong till säsong. Hållbar funktion, enkelhet och mjukt men ändå kvinnligt är värden jag strövar efter.”

Om kläder görs på detta långsiktiga sätt blir det hållbart, vackert och med fin stil i alla lägen. Vem skulle kunna se att detta är retro?

Summary in English

Good design is timeless. This is vintage by Katja of Sweden. The designer Katja Geiger’s philosophy, already in the 1940th,  was to create sustainable, comfortable and female design that work for women in their ordinary life. 

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Hipp Folk Malmö 

Färg och mönster på Folk i Malmö. Foto Sara Thorsson / Sagamodellen

Det finns en mycket speciell butik i Malmö som kan garantera att du får något unikt handplockat från Europa. Köper du en klänning här syns du och du blir närmast ensam att bära designen. Jag pratar om Folk Malmö, en butik på Friisgatan. Plaggen sprakar av färg, mönster och är ofta av ekologisk material.

“Vi vågar förnya oss med nya märken och sticka ut. Våra kunder är även sådana som vågar.” Det säger butikschefen Ingrid. 

Kläderna köps in från olika delar av Europa, bl a Berlin. Märkerna är Margot, Bric-a-Brac och Skunkfunk etc. Inga massprodukter därmed. 

Jag har själv handlat i butiken några gånger. Kläderna som köptes då fick mig att tänka på Katja of Swedens design och mönster. För så tidlöst kan det vara – både då och nu.

Less consumption needed

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Camilla Thulin and Lars Wallin. Photo by Sara Thorsson / Sagamodellen

The fashion industry changes rapidly and perhaps not to the best. Today there is a ‘need’ for up to six collections per year and less time for analysis and creativity to develop slowly. This is Raf Simon’s opinion after leaving the Dior. The professional staff made it work but the pressure is hard, he said.

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Kurbits by Katja of Sweden. Photo by Sara Thorsson / Sagamodellen

It was stressful when Katja of Sweden made her collections in the 50th, 60th and the 70th but in a more natural way. Today there are pre-fall and pre-summer collections, who needs them really I wonder? Not good for the sustainability. On top of this a couture collection is needed for those brands that produce those.
What the world need is less consumption of cheap cloths that only get thrown away when season is over, read Primark for instance. Vintage and high quality brand like Camilla Thulin and Lars Wallin would be better.
The industry struggles not only with sustainable issues but also consumers’ demand. Instagram consumers want to buy instantly but cloths tend to feel old once they reach the shops. Burberry have changed sales strategy and more will follow. Rodebjer is one. Stay tuned…

Photos by Sara Thorsson. The first are a Camilla Thulin vintage dress and the second is a modern Lars Wallin dress. The third is the kurbits pattern by Katja of Sweden, vintage.

Big Business for Colourful Design

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Gudrun Sjöden design. Photo by Sara Thorsson / Sagamodellen

Colourful, environmental awareness and lot of patterns are key words for a Gudrun Sjödén out-fit. Gudrun Sjödén started her design business in 1976 and her cloths sell today on-line and in stores all over Europe and in New York. The techniques and patterns are a unique mixture from Nordic folkclore combined with cultural heritage from countries like China and India.

In Sweden her cloths are bought by matured women with a bohemic look and high cultural standard. Her clients look the same all over the world, they even recognise each other as the look is unique. They are often strong and independent women with a big pocket.

This week a Private Equity company, Ratos, bought 30% of the company who today emplys over 400 people and sells for more than 700mSEK. I would think the growth to the American market needs an economic push to develop it even further. It might also give Gudrun Sjödén and her family some nice cash.

I can’t help wondering why Katja of Sweden did not do the same? Her brand would probably have last longer with some economic help of this standard. Remember though, that was before the internet. It might be easier to run a business with high cultural standard nowadays with help from online business.

Sources: http://www.kulturen.com

Dagens Industri 22 June 2015

Pressrelease published 1 July 2016 “Ratos köper in sig i Gudrun Sjödén”

Kläder av Sveriges skog

Skog har Sverige mycket av. Nu kommer kläder produceras av naturtillgången. Det är idén bakom nya varumärket Allvar som snart lanseras. Det kan vara första gången kläder görs av ursprungsmärkt material från Sveriges egen skog.

Det är klenved och spill från sågverk utanför Örnsköldsvik som tas tillvara för att göra cellulosamassan till viskostyger. Högteknologiskt och tråkigt möjligen, men helt enligt hållbarhetstrenden där ekologiskt går före design. För ursprungsfrågan kommer i framtiden inte bara handla om mat. Trenden går alltmer mot att fler vill veta varifrån plaggets material kommer.

Bakom Allvar finns varumärket Hope´s grundare Stefan Söderberg och nykomlingen i branschen Niklas Gilmark. Först lanserar de kalsonger. Därefter kommer t-shirts och en dam-kollektion.

Källa: Dagens Industri, 22 feb 2016

Foto taget av Gunilla Hägglund

 

Not Only A Hygiene Factor

H&M has published their sustainability report and awarded innovative winners of the Global Change Award the amount of SEK10M. The money comes from H&M Conscious Foundation that will encourage entrepreneurs to come up with more brilliant ideas of how the textile industry can move closer to a more circular production line. Some say that H&M, with their fast fashion, only can offer low quality, low prices and endless consumption.

Is this true or should we not applaud this initiative of becoming more ethical? The trend is rapidly moving to a more ethical direction. All consumers’ way of shopping can make a stand but we don’t really do that. Many of us want to make a bargain from time to time and may not even think of how cloths have been produced and how much labor are being paid. If new innovations can create a sustainable production and if a company like H&M even pays from their own pocket to support it, should this only be considered a hygiene factor? A small fashion company or designer would not be able to make difference in this matter. Some of them are trying hard but find themself only making losses as production get too expensive.

H&M see the trend and will get paid for it. It is still a good initiative that should get applauds and not just moaning moods. If they move into a more sustainable production line we are all winners. At least H&M is trying to do the right thing and more fashion companies should follow.